Last month, while travelling around the Loire with friends who also happen to be wine importers, we had the opportunity to meet Martial Angeli and learn about his extraordinary work in the vineyards around Anjou. Martial’s father is the legendary winemaker Mark Angeli, a mentor to cult growers from the region, such as Stéphane Bernaudeau and Richard Leroy. His work was crucial in putting Anjou Noir on the map and one of the reasons why today dry Chenins from these schistous soils are so sought-after.
Today, Martial and Mark look together after the Ferme de la Sansonnière, the domain that Mark started in 1989, producing wines that to this day are still unsurpassed in the area. Martial is himself an inquisitive and open minded drinker who loves to taste and discover wines from other regions and countries.
First I look at the Loire list. The precision of the selection or lack thereof gives me a good hint of the trust I will have in the sommelier about the other regions and countries. I’ll search for the wines I have not tasted and feel they will be interesting and/or emotional.
Whatever your personal taste, I think a good wine should be genuine and harmonious. I’d say if you can recognize these two qualities or their absence, you know enough about wine.
A tenth of a gram of deer musk could scent a stadium. It has the most potent and persistent scent of any other substance.
Mrs Angeli to be, she’s the most fun.
Terres Blanches 13, the 1977 "Björk" album, anywhere with a fire going
Rillauds d’Anjou of course
Domaine d’Auvenay Meursault Narvaux 2004, a true revelation
At Domaine Leroy in Vosne
That aging does not mean getting old
I try and taste a lot of different things but drink only what I like, and share bottles that friends will love.
Mélanie Grenouilleau & Romain Nicolas, Les Belouines 2021